|
|
From Around The Web
Submit Yours To: Venison Meat: Should You Age Your Venison Meat? By: Susan L Rose
Every time I talk to a hunter's spouse, I hear stories about a deer hanging in the garage or the backyard for a week while it ages. But do you always need to age the meat? The answer is that it depends on the deer.
How old the deer was will impact the taste of the meat, and determine whether you need to age it, which improves the tenderness and flavor of the meat. If you've got a yearling, you can eat it immediately; it doesn't need to age at all-think spring lamb or veal. You can do anything you want with this meat! The older animals, like the 10-point trophy buck, are tough-can you imagine eating a 7 year-old cow? These older animals need to go through an aging process in order to make good eating.
There is some debate over how long you need to age your venison. But it really comes down to how big and old the animal was.
Most hunters age their meat by hanging the carcass in the garage or a shed and letting it sit. While the U.S. Department of Agriculture wouldn't approve of this, it works if the temperatures are cold enough. When aging, you must keep the meat between 32F and 40F and keep it dry-bacteria will grow if the meat is warmer than 40F and has any moisture in it.
We don't have any place to age meat at our house, which is fine since we actually rarely do it. However, if my husband gets a buck that needs some aging, he quarters the deer and puts the meat in coolers with dry ice for a few days, which is sufficient for the does. For the bucks, we borrow our friend's aging refrigerator and let the meat sit there for a week or so. Then we process it as usual.
You've asked for a super-compact 3-blade broadhead, and Muzzy has delivered with a Bone Bustin' duo. New for 2011, Muzzy's 125 grain and 75 grain MX-3s may be compact, but they pack a giant punch.
These new MX-3s provide the hunter with the ultimate selection of weights paired with Muzzy's rock solid 3-blade Muzzy designed this lethal combination to use the same blade in both broadheads, but to use different ferrule materials. The gold 75 grain MX-3 features an aircraft-grade aluminum ferrule, and the silver 125 grain MX-3 is designed with a steel ferrule. Both models boast the same Muzzy Trocar Tip, fixed-blade accuracy and dependability that hunters have come to rely on season after season.
The new MX-3s feature .025" thick blades and a 1 3/16" cutting circle (3/16" wider than Muzzy's standard 75 grain), not to mention, they are 3/16" shorter than the already compact 100 grain MX-3. Don't be fooled by the compact stature of this gruesome twosome. Both models pack all of Muzzy's legendary "Bad to the Bone" power into their ultra compact design while increasing accuracy and minimizing wind plaining at high speeds design in an ultra-compact build Click Here For More MX-3 Details
So, you probably know what trail cameras are already. Now you are interested in learning a little more about infrared (IR) trail cameras. When a flash won't work for a picture, sometimes you need to go with a different technology. Nowadays, that means you take pictures using IR. This article will attempt to explain the benefits of using this technology as well as point out some of the negative aspects caused by using this technology.
First, let's look at the pros. Using IR is a great way to capture images from far away in the dark. Flashes can only go so far, but if you are using technology that can turn the night into the day, then that won't really matter. You can pick up things that you never could before. The police have been using this technology to photograph license plates at night. It works well to capture the image in most cases. Later on we will talk about times when it does not work.
IR trail cameras are also good if you do not want to alert the subject you are photographing. There are some animals that will flee if they notice a flash. If the moon is bright enough, you should be able to get some images of the animal with your IR trail camera. This will at least let you know the basic shape of the animal which will allow you to determine what kind of animal it is.
Now, let's look at the cons. This type of camera can be messed with. It's not a perfect science yet. As I said earlier, the camera is used to take pictures of license plates. Well, there is a spray that people can use on their plates which make it impossible for the camera to read the plate. This means that there are other ways that people can mess with your perception with IR technology. So, you should be careful not to rely too heavily on your IR trail cameras.
Also, the images aren't going to be gorgeous. We're not talking about something that will go on the cover of a magazine or anything. These pictures can help you figure out what kind of animal is going through your trash, but it's not going to snap something that you'll want to hang over your dining room table.
As long as you understand the dangers of using this piece of technology, you should be able to use it pretty well. There is plenty that it can do, so we will not spend too long studying what it can't do.
I hope this article has opened the world of IR trail cameras to you a little. Studying about them does not do them justice. You really need to break these out and use them. That's how you can get firsthand experience with just how well they work. I recommend seeing if anyone you know already has one, and then using theirs for a little while. That way if you don't like it you have not bought it.
Deer hunting is a sport activity observed on specific dates all throughout the United States. Although some people condemn it for its cruel intentions, deer hunting is actually helpful to keep bucks and does from overpopulating and thus prevent them from spreading diseases that might infect humans. If you’re a deer hunting enthusiast who is preparing for the next deer season and is looking for an attractant to help you lure one, read on and find out how to make one.
* Materials needed. The materials that you will need to make a homemade deer scent are the following: a freshly killed deer, a pair of knife, old cooking pan, a large container, 2-4 small containers with covers, outdoor gas stove, rubber hand gloves and a felt-tip marker.
* Wear hand gloves. To make your homemade deer scent, start by wearing hand gloves. The project you are about to tackle will entail lots of contact with a dead deer so it is best to protect your hands and arms beforehand.
* Get a freshly killed deer. Carefully take out its bladder with the use of a sharp knife. You will notice a cord that runs through the deer’s bladder, slightly squeeze it and cut off about 4-5 inches above. Secure it with a tight knot. Repeat procedure with the cord that runs below.
* Place the bladder above your large container. Carefully remove the knot that you made to secure it and pour the urine into the container slowly. Be mindful of the dead deer’s gender as it is vital to know if the urine you collected came from a doe or not. As a general rule of thumb, you can mix urines of does together but never with that of a buck’s. Cover your container tightly and chill it until you are done.
* Prepare your outdoor stove. Take out your old cooking pan and use it to boil the collected deer urine in. Boil the urine over low-fire for an hour or until the entire liquid is reduced by about 75%. Turn off fire and allow liquid to cool down. Keep in mind that doing so will emit an offensive odor so it is best to shut all the windows and doors to prevent the smell from permeating inside your house.
* Store in small containers. Once cooled, divide the liquid among the small containers and cover them nice and tight. With the use of a felt-tip marker, tag each container by identifying which deer it came from. You can now store these containers in a cool, dry place until they are ready to be used.
* Clean up and wash your hands thoroughly. Remember to throw away the cooking pan that you have used to boil the deer urine so as to not be confused with the other pans that you use for your food.
Congratulations on your homemade deer scent! Use it with caution and never make the mistake of smearing it on your body during hunting season to avoid the risk of being attacked by a buck. Keep in mind also that most often than not, using this attractant will not work so don’t be frustrated if you don’t get to lure one on your first try. Remember that in deer hunting, patience is indeed a virtue so be sure to have lots of it while you are waiting for your prized possession. Happy hunting!
SMST NOTE: Boiling is not required, it simply reduces the water in the urine for a stronger concentrate
Trail cameras can be a hunter's best friend if setup and placed correctly, or they can be extremely frustrating if not setup correctly. There are many variables that can affect the quality of your image captures, or even if you get the shot at all. Many hunter's get frustrated with only capturing a partial body shot, such as just the head (missing the deer rack completely) or just getting the legs, front or back of their photo subject.
Here are a few tips that will help you get the most out of your trail camera:
* Use caution when placing the trail camera in areas where there is tall foliage that may interfere with the camera. Believe it or not, the morning sun can actually warm up the leaves on the trees and cause movement.
* Always place the trail camera facing north or south if at all possible. Any placement toward the east or west may result in washed out pictures due to the sun. This typically occurs in the early morning hours if the camera is facing east, or the late afternoon hours if the camera is facing west.
* Clean out the area in front of the trail camera at least 20 to 30 feet out in front of the camera and to the sides. This will keep the camera from being activated from winds moving foliage around the camera.
* Test the sensing capabilities of your trail camera. To far or too close to the target area will result in missed pictures (this is true for any brand of trail camera). Hot and cold temperatures can cause variances in motion detection sensitivity. Always test your camera based on current and predicted weather conditions.
* It's a good practice to place the camera at a higher elevation in rub areas if you're trying to capture pictures of your next big buck. Flashes directly in the eyes of the buck may cause him to abandon the area completely due to being frightened by the flash. Flashes coming from above (higher than eye level) don't seem to bother them.
* The best way to aim the camera along a trail is to aim it slightly to the left of the trail entry point or slightly to the right of the trail exist. This will result in more full images being captured and greatly reduce the number of partial images you'll get on your trail camera. This allows the camera's sensor to get the full image instead of triggering too late or too early.
If you have to ask why to buy a trail camera, then you might not know what they are. The definition of these things is pretty much the reason to buy them. This article will attempt to explain what a trail camera is, some good experiences that people have had with them, and some features that are good to stay away from. In the end I hope to answer the question of why you would want to buy a trail camera.
First, a trail camera is a camera that can be used to take pictures while the photographer isn't physically holding the camera. These contraptions can be placed up in a tree, for instance. They can be used to take pictures by remote control or they can be motion activated. These cameras are often used to take pictures in places that a photographer can't go. For instance, it would take a lot of dedication for a photographer to climb up to the top of a precarious tree for an entire evening to snap a picture of a dangerous animal that might walk by. This type of camera can do that for the photographer. This is just one example of the many things that having such a camera can accomplish.
Trail cameras have been around for a long time. Because of that there have been many features that have come and gone. The old flash is pretty much useless. If you are planning on mounting this camera and then taking a picture more than a few feet away, then you will need a flash that can do the job. Fortunately, there are cameras out there that can take pictures with a flash that spans over forty yards. So, you just need to get a flash that suits your needs. Don't pay too much for one if it isn't going to be used. Also, some of these cameras can also take video. That may or may not be a feature that you are interested in. You should check into it.
Now, for all the great things that these cameras can do, they can also cause a lot of trouble. One of the biggest problems that people have with these cameras is unreliability. If you spend a lot of time mounting this thing, and then it doesn't take the picture, you are going to be very frustrated. You need to make sure you are getting a reliable piece of equipment.
Also, you might want to look at some sample pictures to make sure this is up your alley. Sometimes these cameras aren't used to take the highest resolution pictures. A lot can happen while a camera is mounted. Things can move, and the shot can get crooked. So, don't dream bigger than the camera can accomplish.
I hope that this article has introduced you properly to the world of trail cameras. They can be a lot of fun to use. No longer do you always have to be amidst the danger to get the picture.
Individuals involved in birding, hunting, law enforcement, nature sports, and other outdoor activities require a way to clearly see things that are a huge distance away. Spotting scopes give people this ability in a portable, easy to use fashion. These small devices are usually mounted onto various objects, or come as a hand held scope that can be carried anywhere to see things; whether it's a beast, a criminal, or a beautiful landscape.
Spotting scopes are different than telescopes in that they are small and not conducive to viewing planets and other astrological objects. Also, this technology produces an upright image - telescopes, on the other hand, use a series of mirrors to reflect and refract light; sometimes the objects seen through a telescope are brought to the lens upside down. In addition, a spotting scope can also be used during the day when the former cannot. Although these scopes are not perfect and subject to interference and lack of clarity, they can be a big help in viewing things at a distance.
These tiny, powerful tools can be used during the day for a number of different things. Most use them for things like bird watching and scoring rifle marks from far away. Spotting scopes are preferred over binoculars in many functions because they are stronger and magnify objects greater than do binoculars. Most models of the spotting scope can allow viewing of up to 60 to 80 times magnification even when the sun is out. Not only do spotting scopes give this power of magnification, they usually do so quite clearly.
This gadget is sometimes subject to outside interference that reduce the power of the magnification. Things like wind, atmosphere, particles, and air quality can lessen the ability to see things at further distances. Operating a spotting scope in moist, low-altitude climates affect the device, where using the instrument in a dry, high-altitude climate yields much better results. Also, variances in wind patterns and other weather patterns can affect the overall clarity of the object in view.
With these devices, like many of its kind, the price can be substantial. However, it is suggested to spend a lot more and get a better quality spotting scope. The reason is that top-end scopes produce better image quality as magnification can be increased. The less expensive models tend to not include the same power as the magnification is compromised. Although small spotting scopes are attractive, and due to portability, they are typically weaker. This is usually because of the glass in the objective lens. Basically, when purchasing a spotting scope, one gets what one pays for. Usually, most of the time, size indicates the sharpness and clarity.
This kind of scope can provide the ability to view objects from a great distance away. Because they are able to fit in ones pocket, they are easy to bring anywhere you wish. Some spotting scopes are small enough to fit in ones pocket. But, most of top of the line spotting scopes require mounting of some kind. It is also suggested that you mount the scope for a reduction in moving when the lens focuses; this will increase focus and sharpness of the object.
More Information:
Jim is a national correspondent with over twenty five years editorial experience. Jim is presently working as a columnist for our B2B site and is considered the company authority on spotting telescopes. Be sure to visit our very useful web portal for additional information on Spotting Scope and Spotter Scopes.
Muzzy and Rage are two of the most popular brands of hunting broadhead on the market. Both companies offer high-quality products to a discerning crowd of buyers. Bowhunters are passionate about their sport, and tend to be equally devoted to their favorite broadheads. In general terms, the hunting community is split between those who favor fixed broadheads such as the models produced by Muzzy, and those who prefer expandables of the type offered by Rage.
Muzzy broadheads offer a rewarding hunting experience
Many experienced bowhunters swear by Muzzy broadheads thanks to the superior wound penetration they are said to offer. Because the head is fixed in the open position, its entire energy at the moment of impact is directed towards penetrating the hide, rather than being split between penetration and opening the blades. This enables Muzzy’s broadheads to cut on impact and produce large, deep wounds that cause a swift and relatively painless death. The number of animals that are hit but manage to escape, or that require the hunter to give chase, is thereby minimized.
Fixed broadheads such as Muzzy are often considered to be somewhat difficult to control in flight, which also makes them more suitable for seasoned hunters than for beginners. It is possible to calibrate the bow to correct the flight of the head, although this of course requires some skill and experience too. A lot of bowhunters see adjusting their bows and getting the fletching just right as all part of the sport, however. Muzzy enthusiasts enjoy exercising their skills to bag their targets, and find the challenges presented by fixed broadheads fun rather than problematic.
One clear advantage of Muzzy’s broadheads is their price. A fixed broadhead tends to be considerably cheaper than a mechanical head such as Rage. Since they have no moving parts and are generally more sturdy, fixed heads normally also last longer than their expandable counterparts. Hunters who use Muzzy broadheads frequently report that they can reuse them many times over several seasons as long as they sharpen their blades periodically.
Muzzy offers several different game broadheads with either three or four blades, ranging from 75 to 125 grains. Their super-strong hardened steel Trocar tips are designed to penetrate flesh and bone alike with minimal friction, while their razor-sharp blades create wide entry and exit wounds. The Muzzy 3 Blade 125 Grain Broadhead and the Muzzy 4 Blade 100 Grain Broadhead are two of the company’s most popular offerings for deer, elk, hog and turkey hunting. In addition, Muzzy produces the Quick Release Carp-Point Broadhead, which features a long point for deep penetration and a cam lock that holds on to a soft-fleshed fish until the bow fisherman activates the quick release feature.
Rage broadheads: not your ordinary expandables
Rage broadheads are designed to be a cut above ordinary mechanical broadheads. While it’s well-known that standard expandables lose a lot of power when they hit their targets, Rage products feature the SlipCam Rear Blade Deployment System, which the manufacturer says makes this problem a thing of the past. According to Rage, their innovative broadheads combine the speed and precision of a field tip with the impact and killing power of a three-blade fixed head. In tests against other mechanical brands as well as fixed broadheads, Rage broadheads have been shown to provide superior penetration and cutting diameter, thereby neatly knocking on its head the notion that mechanicals are poor performers.
Another common complaint about mechanical broadheads is that they sometimes fail to open upon impact. In these cases the animal sustains only a mild wound, and often escapes. Rage is so confident of its broadheads’ opening reliability that it offers a money-back guarantee. In the rare instances where a Rage broadhead fails, the hunter can simply ask for a full refund. This brand has also been proven to fly through fine mesh without deploying prematurely. Turkey hunters, as well as those who hunt big game at close range from the shelter of a blind, will appreciate how this makes their lives easier.
These features do come at a price, however; like other expandables, Rage broadheads are a good deal more expensive than fixed broadheads. Even so, Rage devotees cite their ease of use, as well as their excellent flight and targeting qualities as reasons why they love the brand. There are a number of different Rage models, all with either two or three blades. Thanks to its more forgiving blade angle that facilitates deeper wound penetration, the 2-blade Rage 40KE is ideal for bowhunters with light draw weights or short draw lengths. This model has a cutting diameter of 1.5,” as does the 3-blade broadhead, while the other 2-blade Rages cut a 2” circle. The company also produces practice broadheads in both 2- and 3-blade models.
To sum up, Rage and Muzzy are both high-quality brands that have earned their respective followings among the hunting population. Novice bowhunters might find a Rage broadhead easier to use, while veteran hunters could be more comfortable with a Muzzy. Whichever brand and model you pick, bear in mind that your broadhead can only ever enhance the skills and experience you already have, never make up for any lack of them. As they say, practice makes perfect, so happy hunting!
When you’re out bow hunting, your broadheads are arguably the most important items in your kit. It’s therefore essential that you pick a model that suits both your bow and your shooting ability. Make sure it’s the right size and weight for the bow you’re using, and that it works with the way your bow is tuned and set up. You’ll also find that some broadheads are designed for specific types of prey, for example for small game. You should always go for a good quality product; while a superior broadhead won’t compensate for poor bowmanship, it will give you an advantage if you’re already a reasonably proficient archer.
Whether you buy from your local outdoor equipment store or from an online shop, broadheads are available from several different manufacturers. If you’re not sure which brand you want, pick one of the most popular ones. That way you know you’ll get a well-made product that flies properly thanks to its consistent head weight and standardized specifications. Hunting broadheads come in a number of different types, which in turn can be broken down into three basic categories. The following guide will help you determine which kind might be best for you:
Fixed blade broadheads: Many traditional archers favor broadheads with fixed blades, which are considered to offer the best wound penetration and cleanest blood trails. Fixed blade models are permanently set in the open position, and most are designed to cut on impact. Taken together, this means there’s no power wasted on the action of opening up when fixed blades hit their targets, so they’re able to penetrate the hide and produce an open wound even on tough-skinned animals like bears, elks and large deer; hence their enduring popularity with the big game hunting set.
The superior penetrative capabilities of the typical fixed blade broadhead stem from its configuration with a sharp central tip that is surrounded by two to four blades in an “arrowhead” formation. For extra cutting power, many models feature additional blades that protrude from the ferrule attached to the arrow shaft. Since they have no moving parts, fixed blade hunting broadheads tend to be stronger and more reliable than their mechanical equivalents. They’re also the most economical option as they can be sharpened and re-used many times. This model can be hard to control when used with a high speed bow, and also tricky to tune, but you can compensate for these shortcomings by precisely aligning the blades with the fletching.
Replaceable blade broadheads: Confusingly, these are sometimes also classified as fixed blade models, to differentiate them from mechanical or expandable broadheads. This relatively recent type of broadhead is now very widely used thanks to the convenience and good flight characteristics it offers. The ferrule attached to the arrow shaft is equipped with a sharp steel tip, as well as vertical grooves to house a number of blades that are then locked into place. This allows you to simply replace the blades whenever they are damaged or dulled. While the latest models fly nicely, they still don’t penetrate quite as well as fixed blades, and of course they’re more expensive too.
Mechanical broadheads: These are also known as expandable or open on impact broadheads and offer good flight abilities, especially at high speeds. This model features a set of blades that lie folded upwards and recessed into slots in the ferrule until the moment of impact, when they unfold automatically. Some expandables have long blades, which gives a wide cutting area for a speedier, more humane kill and a better blood trail.
Open on impact broadheads won’t always open as intended, however, resulting in game that’s wounded but gets away. In order to penetrate properly your arrows need to fly fast when using expandable broadheads, to make up for the energy lost upon opening. You’ll need to ensure that your kit is set up and tuned correctly, but even then it’s not always easy to use a mechanical broadhead successfully. On the upside, you will find that mechanicals fly straight and hit their targets accurately thanks to the blades’ being hidden and largely unaffected by wind resistance during flight.
Written by Lisa Santora; guest writer for Poor Fish Outdoors. Poor Fish Outdoors is a company that specializes in helping outdoor enthusiasts find bowhunting equipment such as hunting broadheads, plus quality fishing, camping, and cycling gear for their outdoor pursuits. Lisa Santora is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-No Derivative Works 3.0 United States License. © 2010 Poor Fish Outdoors.
Yesterday's wild shooting spree at the University of Texas fortunately ended without anyone being hurt before the gunman shot himself. Naturally, the incident has yet again raised the question over gun bans, such as the ban currently in effect at the University of Texas.
Do they actually do more harm than good?
Gun bans as the solution to gun violence has popped up again, covering different areas. It would have been nice if such bans had stopped criminals from using guns. But, alas, the results are invariably the same, whether the ban is put in place for college campuses, cities, or entire nations: gun bans disarm the law-abiding, not criminals. Instead of making victims safer, they make criminals safer.
Take a simple example. Suppose your family is being stalked by a criminal who intends on harming them. Would you feel safer putting up a sign in front of your home with the message: "This Home is a Gun-Free Zone"? Probably not. The sign would only tell criminals that they would meet little resistance if they attacked. But in effect, we have put these signs on everything from schools to a couple of cities.
With the consistent failures of gun bans in D.C. and Chicago to protect public safety, one would think that people would stop pushing for gun bans. Murder rates in both places soared after bans were imposed. The just-released FBI crime numbers for 2009 show that murders and other violent crime rates plummeted after the Supreme Court struck down D.C.'s gunlock and handgun ban law in 2008. D.C.'s murder rate fell by an astounding 23 percent last year, about three times the national drop in murder rates as well as for cities of similar size. The drop in murder and other violent crime has continued this year, with the numbers available through July showing a total drop in murders of about 36 percent over two years.
Gun control proponents claim that those bans weren't fair tests because guns were still available in other parts of the country and thus criminals could bring guns into D.C. and Chicago. But the failure of bans occurs even when entire nations adopt them. Even island nations, such as Ireland, Jamaica, or England and Wales, who can't blame some neighboring country for its supply of illegal guns, have seen increases in murder rates.
The debate over concealed handguns has been similar, raising the question of whether guns should be limited to people's homes. Fears about accidents and rampages by permit holders, and blood running in the streets however never materialized where concealed carry has been allowed. Individuals who have gone through the process to get a permit have turned out to be extremely law-abiding, losing their permits for firearm violations at just hundredths or even thousandths of one percent. Refereed academic studies by economists and criminologists alike have consistently demonstrated that these predictions never occurred for crime either.
The University of Texas attack yesterday could easily have ended up with innocent victims being killed or injured. These deranged attackers typically want to commit suicide in a way that will gain them the most attention, and they do that my causing as much violence as possible before they die.
Bill Landes and I have examined all the multiple-victim public shootings with two or more victims in the United States from 1977 to 1999. We found that when states passed right-to-carry laws, these attacks fell by an astounding 60 percent. Deaths and injuries from multiple-victim public shootings fell on average by 78 percent. And to the extent that these attacks still occur in states with right-to-carry laws, they overwhelming occur in those few places where concealed handguns are not allowed. Gun free zones served as magnets for these attacks.
The desire to ban guns is understandable, but it is dangerous, too. If we won't hang "Gun-Free Zone" signs around our homes, let's not hang them around our schools or other places we care about either.
The crow is actually a coyote with feathers. The two don't look the same, but they have a lot in common. Both are wary, shy and incredibly intelligent. Most important of all, both are survivors. The fellow who wrote that only rats, cockroaches, scorpions and coyotes would survive a nuclear holocaust obviously knew nothing about the crow. There are dozens of different species of crows throughout the world, but the one we are aiming at here is the American version, which goes by the scientific name of Corvus brachyrhynchos. It is found over much of the North American continent and while its primary enemy is the owl, it is also susceptible to West Nile Virus--which has been known to reduce the population in some areas by as much as 75 percent in only a few months. While there is no evidence that the disease can be transmitted to humans through handling, wearing rubber gloves when setting up for a photo shoot is not a bad idea. "Eating crow" is more than a popular expression as some people have been known to do just that, but it is a risk I do not recommend these days. The average life span of the crow is about eight years, although it has been known to live for up to four times longer in captivity. As gray matter goes, it is extremely intelligent and one of very few birds known to use tools in obtaining food. Crows have also been observed dropping seeds and nuts onto roads and waiting for an automobile to come along and break them open. They have even been seen using food scavenged from garbage dumps as bait for luring fish into pecking range. When I started shooting crows back during my high school days it was legal to do so at any time during the year. Shooting them during spring and summer when game hunting seasons were closed was quite popular in the Southeast (call it the country boy's sporting clays, if you will). I had the first Johnny Stewart battery-powered varmint caller in my neck of the woods, and to give you some idea of how long ago that was, it used 45 RPM records. Believe me when I say it was effective on those rascally birds. My chums and I used to carry military surplus .50-caliber ammo cans filled with reloaded shotshells to our setup spots, and most of the time they were empty by the time we were ready to move on to another area. It was hot-barrel shotgunning before any of us had ever heard of Argentina. The days of bumping off crows year-round ended in 1972 when they were classified as migratory game birds and became protected by an amendment to the Migratory Bird Treaty Act. Nowadays, they can be legally shot only during certain months of the year, although in the case of severe crop damage, some states allow them to be shot year-round. Most states require the purchase of a hunting license and a migratory bird permit. Not as many people take crow-shooting as seriously today as in the old days simply because much of the season runs concurrent with seasons for other game. This has resulted in a tremendous population increase in some areas of the country--the Southeast in particular. However, too many shotgunners overlook that fact that since crow season often extends later into the year than other bird seasons, it is an excellent excuse for staying in the field long after the frost has melted from the pumpkin. Dates vary considerably across the country, but in some states crows can be legally taken on into the month of April. In some states (with North Carolina and Minnesota being examples) the season cranks up again as early as June. If that's not enough to spark your interest, keep in mind that farmers who are experiencing crop damage from crows often welcome shooters with big smiles and open arms. One of the great things about crow shooting is that it does not require a lot of expensive equipment. The same shotgun you use for other wingshooting works just as nicely here. I prefer a 20-gauge gun and often use the 16 gauge, but the 12 gauge is more popular. Effective calling brings them in close, so Skeet and Improved Cylinder in the barrels of a double work fine. When using a pump or auto I usually stick with IC. The biggest expense is ammo, simply because if the shooting is good you will burn up a lot of it. Serious crow shooters I know reload their shotshells, and the most popular shot size is No. 6: an ounce in the 20 gauge, and 1-1⁄8 ounces in the 16 and 12. Crows have sharp eyes, so wearing full camo (including gloves and face mask) is as important as keeping still. When shooting before leaf fall, a bush or the low-lying limbs of a small tree are good cover. Once the trees become bare, a good portable ground blind is worth its weight in dead crows. A crow is easier to call than a turkey gobbler, but I'm convinced it is less tolerant of a sour note. Practice with a mouth call until you can do a good job of imitating a crow in distress, and if they are within hearing distance get ready for some of the most exciting shooting you will ever experience. Crows are smart, and often send in a lone bird to check out the situation before arriving in force--so hold your fire until the gang arrives. While the use of an electronic caller on migratory birds is usually prohibited, most states make an exception for crows and it does have advantages. In addition to leaving both of your hands free for the important jobs of loading and shooting, an electronic caller positioned about 25 yards away and close to an owl decoy takes the attention of the birds away from the shooter. If the birds have not been previously educated by a lot of calling, they are likely to ignore all the shooting while making their kamikaze attacks on the decoy. Placing a few crow decoys on tree limbs in the vicinity of the owl decoy adds to your chances of good shooting. A friend of mine used to also tether a battery-powered flying bat to the ground out near the owl. He bought it at a toy store before Halloween, and the crows seemed convinced that one of their cousins had been wounded by one of Dracula's pets. I have not gotten around to trying the spinning wing crow and owl decoys available today, but they should be quite effective. There is more to shooting crows than the fun factor--they have the ability to seriously impact game bird populations. A Canadian biological survey taken several decades ago, back when hunters shot crows year-round, showed that a single bird ranging within close proximity of duck nesting areas averaged taking between 110 and 120 eggs and fledglings per year. It was estimated that the annual duck harvest for crows was 20 million, while sportsmen took 11 million. With the present overpopulation of crows in some areas, one only wonders what the waterfowl mortality numbers are today. Add quail, doves, grouse and even small mammals such as rabbits and squirrels to the crow's menu and you are into really serious predation. That old slogan, "kill a crow, save a duck," might be more appropriate today than it was back when we shot them year-round.
Who hasn't done it, shown up for a big dove hunt and put yourself in a bad spot. It is simply miserable to listen to all the blasting around you as you contemplate everything from moving spots to what you did to deserve this. The best bullets, most expensive shotgun, and best trained dog cannot make up for picking a bad spot when dove hunting. Let's look at how we can prevent singing the 'no dove blues'. First we will look at the three basic ways to get a good spot when dove hunting and then we'll breakdown what to look for when scouting. Scout the field: If you don't have a sixth sense like my dad does, then it will pay to do a little scouting before you show up for the hunt. You can learn a lot about the dove in just one afternoon. Pay attention to their flight patterns, the sun, and the time they start to fly. Pick a few spots that look promising, just in case someone beats you to your first choice. Early bird gets the worm: And the early hunter gets the spot and the birds. It's really not a good plan to scout out your spot and come driving up too late to get it. Surely, if you've picked a decent spot it won't last long. Whether you are hunting the morning hunt or afternoon, don't dally, get to the field, take your spot and prepare to be the one making everyone else jealous. Be still: If your new to dove hunting, then you probably haven't witnessed a pair of incoming dove break into evasive maneuvers on the slightest movement by you. After a dove has been shot at a couple of times or, as Tim Lilley from Game & Fish calls it, educated, they become very jumpy and will change course on any ground movement. This can be devastating to even the best spot. Expert dove hunter, Will Jester, thinks that being still and keeping your dog still is more important than the fanciest camo you can buy. Sure, you'll want to wear some camo but if you are jumping up to shoot way to early the camo won't help. Those are the basic steps to getting a good spot to hunt. Now let's look at what actually look for when scouting or looking at a field for the first time. The sun: Get your bearings and figure out east from west and then position yourself with the sun at your back. The sun can really hinder your ability to spot dove much less shoot dove. If having it at your back is not possible try to face where it is not directly in your eyes. Structure: Dove structure is basically something other than food or water that attracts birds. These structures effect the dove's flight patterns in a field. It could be anything from a group of trees to an old barn in the field. These structures will be a staging area for the dove to hold at until they leave to feed or water. Finding a position within range of these structures can make for some prime real estate in the field. Bare Spots: A bare spot in the field can be a great place to find holding dove. Dove need to have a certain amount of gravel and sand in there diet. Will Jester says, "These areas can be ideal, food on the ground all over the field will obviously scatter and disperse the doves. A hunter sitting near a visible patch of grit will often get a concentration of birds headed for one place that offers more than one of the things they need." Of course you don't want to sit in the bare spot, just in shotgun range of the spot. Watering Holes: Dove usually go to water after they eat. Keep this in mind if your considering setting up near water. If there are many hunters set up where the food is, they will get the first crack at the dove. Don't get me wrong there can be some fantastic shoots by water, but if it is a large field with many hunters, I wouldn't recommend it as your primary spot. If you take these points into consideration when scouting, or heaven forbid, just showing up to hunt, your chances of a successful hunt will improve greatly.
Crows are social animals, which means they are always talking to each other and traveling together. However, in my experience, when crows respond to call, normally, one bird responds first to survey the situation. I call this bird the 'scout'. It is very important not to allow the scout to be suspicious that anything is out of the norm. If you are 100% positive that you can take the scout when he comes in, you may do so, but if there is any doubt, it is wisest to let the scout make a few passes and return to his buddies to let them know that everything is normal. If you shoot and miss the scout or spook it in some way, then the other crows will not respond to your call. If he does bring his friends with him on his next response, then you and your hunting companions should all get some quick shooting. As previously mentioned, crows have excellent vision. This is why it is imperative that you dress in full camouflage and set up next to some type of cover. You also must remain completely motionless until it is time to take the shot. Obviously, you will be using a shotgun. I recommend using 5 or 6 shot, since these birds can sometimes be tough to take down, especially at extended ranges. As for calls, crows respond readily to a wide variety of calls. Generally, crow sounds such as Fox Pro's Crow Gathering, Crow Fight, or Crow party. You can also use crow sounds mixed with owl or hawk sounds to entice crows to respond. Finally, crow decoys also work well to ensure these animals that your set up is safe for them to arrive. Plastic decoys that stick in the ground or trees can be purchased for less than $10, or you can make your own with black cardboard cut into the shape of a crow silhouette. If crows do not respond within 5 or 10 minutes, or if I take a few shots, I will relocate to a new area and repeat the process. Just remember, always hunt safely.
Crow hunting is a popular way for hunters to hone their skills in the off season, since some states allow crows to be hunted all year long. The sheer sport of hunting crows makes it great practice for hunters of all levels. One of the most effective ways to hunt crows is to scout out a well-populated roosting spot. Crows have been known to roost in groups of hundreds, or even thousands. Set up a blind along the flight path that the crows take to their roost. The flight path is easy to locate - simply stake out the roost and see how the crows come and go. They will follow the same path every day. The can be hunted in the early morning as they leave the roost or - even more successfully as they come back to roost before the sun goes down at night. Crow hunting around their roosting place is best done from a blind, and the use of decoys is highly recommended. You can use anywhere from 10 to 15 decoys, and string them up in the trees around their blind. Simple twine is great for stringing up the decoys, because it blends right in with the surrounding material in the trees. It is also a good idea to put a few decoy crows on the ground in the area as well. Some hunters like to use an electronic crow call when crow hunting and say that it makes crow hunting a piece of cake. There are a number of good crow callers on the market, and you can find them in most hunting or outdoor sports stores. A few states have restrictions on using electronic crow callers, so be sure to check the regulations in your area before making a purchase. Crows are one of the most intelligent migratory birds, which is what makes hunting them so much of a challenge. A crow caller is highly recommended for anyone who wants to get a bunch of crows in one trip. It is possible to hand call a crow, but it can literally take your breath away. Regulations and seasons for crow hunting vary from state to state. It is common to have a crow hunting season of 124 days or less. It is also illegal to hunt crows when they are breeding. Always be sure to check the regulations in your state to avoid any problems. Crows are considered to be nuisance birds, especially in agricultural centers, because they have been known to ravage and destroy entire crops. Additionally, it was recently discovered that crows are carriers of West Nile Virus, which may make them a potential health threat. So, crows are hunted for both the pure sport of it as well as population control in areas where they pose a threat to farms and gardens.
Turkey and deer catch a lot of kudos around here, but the common and abundant squirrel is the nearly perfect hunting target. All of the most experienced and even famous hunters I’ve known agree: If you can learn to be a good squirrel hunter, you can hunt anything in the woods. They provide the best opportunity to develop or hone woods hunting skills. Of course, there are a number of ways to hunt them, but my favorite is to slip quietly through the woods, pausing often, using my ears and my eyes to locate and stalk them. This, to me, is hunting in its purest form. It stirs something in me that I inherited from ancient ancestors. I’ve been hunting this way for almost 50 years. In fact, squirrels were the first thing I ever hunted, and this method, known as “still hunting,” was how my mentors first taught me to hunt. Patience and stealth are the most significant aspects squirrel hunting teaches one about moving through the woods like a hunter. I once did a survey of the best squirrel hunters in the country for an article. These were all guys who harvest hundreds of squirrels every season, and every one of them said patience is paramount. That’s what it really boils down to for squirrels or turkeys or deer: being more patient than the quarry. So, don’t leave a tree you know a squirrel is in just because you can’t spot it readily. Like some hunters, squirrels quickly become bored with one spot, thinking another part of the tree offers better opportunities. Instead of just moving a few feet to another cluster, they’ll usually follow a limb to the trunk, go up or down and out onto another branch on the other side. If you exercise more patience than the squirrel, you’ll get a shot. Whenever you drop a squirrel, don’t rush over and pick it up. Make a mental note of where it lies and stay still for at least a half an hour. If there are other squirrels in the tree, or others on their way to it, it usually doesn’t take them long to get back to business, as long as they don’t detect movement after the shot. This is how the best squirrel hunters collect a limit from one tree, especially from hickories. Whenever you do move, pick a path that will make the least noise underfoot. I know of no studies to this effect, but I’m sure squirrels hear very well. Old deer trails and logging roads are ideal. Hunting after a rain is always more productive than when everything is dry and brittle. Move only a few steps at a time and pause for a few minutes between moves. Scan the trees only when standing still. Each time you take a step, look only at the ground. Place your feet carefully, and when you set your foot, don’t try to tip-toe. Place your heel first and roll your foot forward. Try to use the available brush to conceal your movements, but don’t go through it or move it to the side with your hands. Duck or crawl if you have to, but don’t disturb anything. Squirrels notice shaking branches quicker than anything. Whenever possible, move from tree to tree and lean against them to break your outline. Try to avoid stopping in the open. Moving from tree to tree is especially important if you hunt with a .22 rifle, because the sides of trees provide a solid rest to steady your aim. If I happen to spot a squirrel when I’m not next to a tree, I’ll usually ease up to the nearest tree before taking aim because I’m about twice as accurate that way than if I try to shoot off-hand. Of course, you don’t have to worry about this if you hunt with a scatter gun, but moving from tree to tree will still help conceal you from the lofty eyes of bushy tails. Make all of your movements slow and deliberate. Don’t jerk your head or body around to check out noises, and don’t swing your gun barrel around quickly when you shift its weight or raise it to aim. Scientists say that squirrels are relatively smart animals–every bit as smart as our beloved dogs. The squirrels you hunt in the woods are as different from the ones people feed in the parks as wild coyotes are from puffy poodles with pink bows in their ears. In the wilds they are just as cautious of a man as they are of owls and other predators. They aren’t as easy to bag as some believe, and trying to stalk within shotgun range of one teaches you a lot about reading the body language of animals to know when to move and when to stand motionless. Those who bag a bunch, treat them with the same esteem that others only show to much bigger game. Squirrels, however, are so abundant that even a beginner can scratch out one or two while he or she learns things that will help them later harvest deer, or turkey or anything else in the wild and wooly woods. It is, I believe, the perfect hunting sport. Ron Kruger has been an outdoor writer/photographer/editor for over 30 years.
Congratulations to you all for your successes in the field. We sure hope next season is as equally prosperous, if not even better, than 2009. Your participation and interest in what you have accomplished is an awesome achievement and you should take great pride in being part of the sport, SMST is certainly proud of what all you have accomplished.
Jacob Windsor took a 12 point white-tailed buck with a shotgun on the 14th day of November, 2009 in Calvert County.
Tyler Sewell took a 150 pound, 8 point white-tailed buck with a shotgun on the 14th day of November, 2009 in Calvert County.
Jacqueline Kuhn took a 110 pound, 7 point white-tailed buck with a muzzleloader on the 23rd day of October, 2009 in Charles County. Jacqueline also took a 110 pound, 9 point white-tailed buck with a shotgun on the 14th day of November, 2009 in Charles County.
Michael Balazek took a 170 pound, 8 point white-tailed buck with a shotgun on the 14th day of November, 2009 in Charles County.
John William Figgins III took a 200 pound, 11 point white-tailed buck with a muzzleloader on the 23rd day of October, 2009 in Charles County.
See these champions of the outdoors with their trophies, and all of the other youths from Maryland counties, who submitted their achievements for the world to see on the Maryland DNR Youth Hunt Photo Gallery by clicking on the link - Maryland Junior Hunt Photo Gallery - 2009
Layne receives a lot of questions about scatterguns. Here are the 20 most common along with his answers, based on over 40 years of shooting and hunting.
Shooting Times readers are great at coming up with interesting and often challenging technical questions, and I'm happy to say I receive far more letters each month than I can possibly squeeze into my "Questions & Answers" column. What happens to letters that don't get used? Well, for starters they all get read. And if a particular letter pertains to a subject I believe to be of general interest to a fair number of other readers, it is filed away under one of various headings like "Rifles," "Cartridges," "Optical Instruments," "Wildcats," etc. Anytime one of those files starts filling up, I know quite a large percentage of readers have to be interested in that particular subject. About a year ago my "Varmint Shooting" letter file grew to the point where the ST editors and I decided it was time to combine the 20 most popular questions into a feature article, so I did just that. More recently, my "Shotgun Stuff" file was on the verge of splitting at its seams, so we figured the time had come to do the same for that subject. Here, then, are 20 of the most popular questions I have received from readers interested in all things dealing with the sport of shotgunning.
No. 1
Unlike magnum centerfire rifle cartridges, which are usually faster than standard cartridges, magnum shotshells of all gauges are often slower than regular field loads. Use of the word magnum in shotshell terminology refers to a heavier shot charge and not necessarily an increase in speed. As examples, Remington's 12-gauge 2 3/4-inch Premier Magnum turkey load has 1 1/2 ounces of shot and a 1260 fps muzzle velocity rating while Remington's standard Game Load delivers 1/4 ounce less shot but is rated at a quicker 1330 fps. Moving on up in payload size, respective shot charge weights of the Premier Magnum loadings of the three-inch and 3 1/2-inch 12-gauge Magnum shells are two and 2 1/4 ounces respectively while their muzzle velocities are only 1175 and 1150 fps respectively. It all has to do with the maximum chamber pressures within which the ammunition makers must work, and when light and heavy shot charges are loaded to the same pressures, the latter will be lower in velocity.
No. 2
What Is A Shot Tower?
In a survey this fall, Southwick Associates asked anglers and hunters what is their most trusted source for conservation information. Not surprisingly, the result was sportspeople most rely on their state fish and wildlife agencies for this kind of info. Of the 2,771 anglers surveyed, 54.4 percent reported state fish and wildlife agencies were their most trusted source. Of the 3,378 hunters surveyed, 50.7 percent agreed. The second most trusted source, with 25.1 percent of anglers and 29.5 percent of hunters, was sport-fishing and hunting non-profit conservation groups.
Other sources of conservation information were presented to hunters and anglers. Non-profit conservation groups not focused towards fishing or hunting were preferred by 5.3 percent of anglers and 7.4 percent of hunters. Federal fish and wildlife agencies were rated as the most trusted source by 5.0 percent of anglers and 4.3 percent of hunters. Non-outdoor television programming and magazines ranked even lower. ”The results indicate that sportsmen and women want to hear from their state fish and wildlife agency when it comes to fish and wildlife conservation issues,” reported Donna Leonard. “Efforts to increase conservation awareness or behavior will have better success if state fish and wildlife agencies are involved.”
All of this seems reasonable and what I would probably have expected Southwick’s results to show from asking these questions. Yet personal experience tells me that there’s frequently a breakdown in the communication from the state agencies to us – their customers. For example, I make it a point to take a copy of the game regulations book into the stand with me – stimulating reading to pass the hours! But all too frequently I’m more confused when I done reading than when I started. In fact, a few years back, in reading through the special supplement for the Minnesota bear season, I found several direct contradictions in the same 16-page booklet!
At NAHC headquarters we receive many emails and letters from members describing what they consider “over-zealous” enforcement of game regs by conservation officers. So one day I ran into the local CO at the local bait store. I asked him when is the annual meeting of the Cos with their supervisors to go over the new regs for each year. His response: “What meeting would that be?”
Turns out new regs are distributed to the in-the-field CO’s in writing. There’s never a chance to ask questions or find out what the new law is intended to do. Largely, it’s left up to the individual interpretation of each officer.
I guess we’ve got to trust somebody on the game laws, and it makes the most sense to trust information from those who have to enforce them. But it also reiterates for me that the only stupid question is one that goes unasked! If there’s a game law, that potentially impacts the hunting I’ll be doing and I don’t understand it … I’m gonna track down the CO and ask him. You should, too!
"Sometimes the best way, or only way,
Many hunters believe that by the second or third day of the season, any deer that managed to survive opening day have made tracks to safer ground. Maybe that safe ground is a state park or a game refuge where no hunting is permitted. Often the safe ground these hunters have in mind is a chunk of private property where hunters are not welcome.
While it’s true that some deer do find themselves sitting out the season in one of these off-limits sanctuaries, their numbers are much smaller than many hunters believe. The truth is, whitetail deer in general, and mature whitetail deer in particular, are real homebodies. It takes more than an intrusion by a few hunters, or even a busload of hunters, to force a mature buck or doe off it’s home turf.
Sure there have been studies done with collared deer which have shown that some deer do move great distances. But, invariably, these long-distance travelers have been young bucks, usually one-and-one-half years old, who are simply out cruising around looking for a place to call their own. Once they find that place and establish what we call a “home area”, they tend to stay put.
The reason a deer usually prefers to hang tight to its home area, is that this is where a deer feels the most secure.
An adult deer, buck or doe, knows every square yard of it’s home turf as well as you and I know our own homes. A mature deer knows that if forced away from it’s familiar haunts it becomes vulnerable.
The size of a deer’s home area varies from place to place. If a buck has food, water, good cover and enough does to keep him busy during the rut on a 500-acre tract, then that 500 acres will constitute his home area. If it takes two or three times that acreage to provide the deer with what it needs to survive, then the home range will be larger.
But regardless of it’s size, you can bet there is a nasty chunk of thick cover within the boundaries of that home area. This is where the deer disappears when hunting pressure dictates. Depending upon where you hunt, that escape cover might be a cattail slough, cedar swamp, pine thicket or a nasty briar patch.
Deer disappear into the very cover we hunters tend to avoid. In fact, the surest way I have found to identify good deer hideouts is to look for places I want to walk around, not through.
How you hunt deer in the thick stuff is fodder for another piece, but believing that deer seek out this heavy cover within their home area -- rather than risk traveling outside of their home areas to somewhere off limits to hunters -- is already a big step toward better deer hunting success.
Hunting bushytails will teach you all you need to know for deer hunting. Squirrels have sparked the hunting spirit of many young hunters. Interest in squirrel hunting,however, often wanes as hunters grow older. Bigger game, such as white-tailed deer, takes center stage. Nevertheless, squirrel hunting can be just as exciting as ever, and it's a superb way to sharpen your deer-hunting skills.
Building Patience
The amount of waiting inherent in hunting white-tailed deer demands more patience than most people have. Our culture demands immediate satisfaction. When we want something, we expect to get it right away. This attitude runs counter to nature's pace and to the mindset needed to successfully hunt whitetails. Developing patience requires practice, and a great time to practice is while squirrel hunting. Squirrels are abundant in Missouri. The squirrel season is long, and limits are liberal. Any tract of timber larger than 10 acres with mature, nut-producing trees will usually contain lots of squirrels. Good squirrel hunting is easy to find, and it's an excellent way to escape the "have-it-now" tempo of the modern world. Squirrel hunting, requires that you slip back into nature's pace. You may have to wait an hour or so for a squirrel to re-emerge after ducking into a den tree. You may have to stand in one place and look skyward for 15 minutes. You'll find that you have to travel through the woods in discreet, five-step increments. The patience that you acquire in squirrel hunting will make you a better and more successful deer hunter.
Shooting Skills
For any hunter, the rifle range is a fine place to practice marksmanship. However, few deer or squirrels are taken by hunters shooting at marked distances from a bench rest in full sun. At the range and in the woods, proper breathing, trigger control and follow through are the same, but that's about it. Deer hunters face an array of shot angles from a variety of shooting positions under varying light conditions. To further complicate matters, shots must often be made within a narrow window of opportunity. Squirrel hunting provides frequent shooting practice under the same conditions you'll face when deer hunting. To fine-tune your marksmanship for deer season, hunt squirrels with a .22-caliber rifle similar to the design of your deer rifle, and use the same type of sights that you use while deer hunting. If you hunt deer with a muzzleloading rifle, squirrel hunting is even more helpful. Muzzle-loading rifles, from flintlocks to in-lines, are highly reliable and accurate. Level of reliability and accuracy, however, is determined by proper handling. All muzzleloaders, for example, require meticulous cleaning to be functional. Breech and bores must be left dry and oil free. Powder must be kept dry. With caplock muzzleloaders, percussion caps must fit tight and snug to the nipple. With flintlocks, flints must be sharp, properly positioned and tight in the jaws of the cock. The touch hole must be clear, with a proper quantity of powder in the pan. Any hunter new to muzzleloading will experience a few misfires before learning to fully control these variables. It's far better to have a misfire on a squirrel hunt than to have a misfire on a deer. Hunting squirrels with a muzzleloader also allows a hunter to learn how to use and organize loading equipment while hunting. Many deer hunters don't know that the muzzle-loading rifle they use for deer can also be used to hunt squirrels. Simply reduce the powder charge and shoot only at the head. Bowhunters who hunt whitetails can enhance their deer-hunting skills by bowhunting for squirrels. Try it. You'll quickly be convinced. September, when nuts are falling and squirrels are foraging for them on the ground, is the best month to bowhunt for squirrels. Climb in your deer stand and wait. Squirrels that feed on the ground within 15 yards or closer to your position allow you to practice shooting downward as you would from a tree stand. This will also give you excellent practice shooting at really close ranges. Such shots are trickier than they appear. When bow hunting for squirrels, use judo points and aim for the squirrel's head. To be sure, bow hunting for squirrels is not about bringing home a limit. Bagging a squirrel or two with a bow represents a great hunt. Over the course of several hunts, you will likely get enough squirrels for a meal or two. Come October, the shooting practice you logged will increase your odds of bagging a deer.
Scouting
Successful deer hunting involves knowing where deer tend to be at a given time, and knowing which way they travel to get there. This requires scouting. Scouting is simple in concept. Find where deer feed and bed, then find a way to set up, undetected, between those two areas. Squirrel hunting allows you to do just that. When hunting for bushytails, look for deer sign, particularly in September, when deer are establishing routines that will carry into deer season. Some deer hunters might question this advice, believing that human presence and gunfire will cause deer to leave an area or change their habits. It is probably wise not to hunt squirrels where you plan to deer hunt during the couple of weeks immediately before deer season, but before then you can learn a lot about where deer are feeding and bedding.
Maximum Effort
Hunting white-tailed deer represents different things to different people. For some, hunting whitetails is mostly a social activity. It's about getting together with good buddies for a weekend or for evenings filled with good food and time around the campfire. The actual hunting is secondary to getting away for a while with friends. For others, hunting is the main focus. They like the challenge, and they spend many hours in the woods and expend maximum effort on their deer hunting. If you take your deer hunting seriously, then squirrel hunting is a great a way to hone your skills. Try it. Come deer season, your skills will be noticeably sharper.
Fine Food
Besides sharpening deer-hunting skills and being fun, squirrel hunting offers fine table fare. Young squirrels are delicious when fried. To prepare a young squirrel for frying, skin it, then remove its entrails. Be careful not to puncture its stomach, intestines or bladder. Cut off its front and hind legs and the back meat. Remove the yellow-gray glands located where the front legs join the body, and the glands located under the triangle-shaped patch of tissue on the hind legs,where thigh meets knee. Soak squirrel pieces in milk, then roll them in flour flavored with a liberal amount of seasoned salt and black pepper. Heat about a half-inch of oil in a skillet to 350 degrees. Brown squirrels on one side for about five minutes, then carefully turn squirrel pieces over and reduce the heat to 275 degrees. Cook another 10 to 15 minutes. "Crisp up" the squirrel pieces by returning the heat to 350 degrees for the last few minutes of cooking. Remove squirrel pieces and place them on paper towels that will absorb excess oil. If the towels become oil-soaked and no longer absorbent, place the pieces on a second set of clean towels.This will help keep them crisp. Try serving the squirrel meat with biscuits, fresh tomatoes, homegrown green beans and new potatoes. For dessert, pecan pie is hard to beat.
Inline muzzleloading has had few really true improvements in the propellant department over the last six years or so. Sabots are better, bullets have seen
improvement, but aside from the Savage 10ML-II and its use of smokeless that
shotgunners knew was an obvious step forward over a hundred years ago,
muzzleloading propellants have come up short in one way or another. We have
made some unfortunate choices, opting for poorly packaged moisture-sucking
pellets that begin to loose their potency as soon as they are exposed to humid
air and still may foul and rot our barrels. We apparently opt for convenience
over good and we make some strange choices in equipment. We claim that cheap
is what we want and we seem to enjoy buying cheap muzzleloaders. Then we
make the worst possible decision when it comes to propellant; that being opting
for the sales pitch of “magnum” muzzleloading and the "take three pellets and
call me in the morning" routine.
Pellets are the worst way to work up loads and at 33 shots per box for our magnum expedition we may be forking-over a dollar a shot for inaccuracy, corrosion and crud rings. On top of that, we need to lick patches for any hope of consistent bore conditions and still need to rush to clean our guns every time we shoot them. Somehow, we still seem to think that putting water in a rifle barrel is somehow an acceptable practice. “Cleaning up with just water” should ring alarm bells to those that understand that if it is water-soluble, it likely sucks moisture like a sponge and holds it inside our barrels, right where we don’t want it. That is not particularly attractive in itself, but when the moisture is combined with heavy fouling crud rings and corrosive residue, barrels get ruined if set aside for long. We pay a premium for the “convenience” of pellets and waste our time cleaning our convenient little pellet popper or risk the destruction of our muzzleloaders if we neglect them.
Yet, with all the clear negatives associated with Triple Se7en, it still is a popular choice. As cited in http://www.chuckhawks.com/black_powder_substitute_roundup.htm , it is the “available” solution, gives better velocities than Pyrodex, far better velocities than the horrible American Pioneer / Shockey’s Gold stuff, and is far more consistent than the gravel textured APP / Shockey’s Gold as well. The new propellant introductions have been tremendous disappointments again and again, though hope springs eternal. Goex promised improved American Pioneer, but failed to improve it. Now, it seems that Goex “Pinnacle” has faded from view. Black Mag3 was the pick of the 2006 tested litter but vanished from the scene almost immediately after they started making it properly, joining the faint echoes of Black Canyon and Goex CleaRshot that burned far more consumers and
distributors than they did deer.
What is good about Triple Se7en FFg is its availability, consistency and velocity. That has trumped its multiple other problems such as the crud ring, heavy fouling, the need to spit patch between shots and its intermittent ability to seize
breechplugs. Triple Se7en has been a resounding success, giving rise to its own
set of “accessories” just to fight its problems: Triple Se7en primers, exotic
bore cleaners, and a new focus on “EZ Load” sabots, though it was never the
sabots that made things harder and harder to load. It was trying to push them
through all the T7 fouling that gave people the Excedrin headaches.
Well, it looks like Triple Se7en is finally obsolete, because now we
finally have a hassle-free, consistent blackpowder replica powder that exceeds
blackpowder and Pyrodex performance from Western Powders, a legitimate and respected company. Crud rings, water, stuck breechplugs, corrosion and licking cotton patches are now things of the past, along with Triple Se7en. It is about time. I
certainly cannot say that Triple Se7en does not work, it does and has for me.
The fouling shot in the morning of the hunt along with the firing and cleaning at the end of the day is something I’ve dealt with for some time. The constant discarding of partial pellet packs and partial bottles of T7 is part of the regimen if you want fresh powder performance.
Blackhorn 209 was trademarked by Western Powders on October 20, 2007 and is scheduled for general availability in March, 2008. I’ll include some of my original testing notes; I have been assured by Western Powders / Accurate Arms that the actual
released product is identical in performance to what I have been shooting.
Standard Winchester 209 shotshell primers were used throughout. Baseline data was established at 41 degrees F. ambient using Knight / Barnes 290 grain EZ Load PBT (blue sabot) and Barnes Spitfire TMZ 250 (yellow sabot) saboted bullets and 100 gr. volumetric BH209.
290 grain sabot: 1722 – 1741 fps
250 grain sabot: 1841 - 1856 fps The chronographs were verified before and after the shooting with established 1200 fps .22 LR ammo. All powder
charges were volumetrically measured using a T/C U-View powder measure, set to
100 grains. By Lyman electronic scale, this equates to 66.8 grains of actual
weight. I did no swabbing at all between shots and noticed no significant increase in loading pressure shot to shot. Clean-up after shooting was done with Montana X-Treme
“Cowboy Blend.” It was very easy, taking only a couple of patches. I spent no time examining the powder kernels under a microscope, but a simple visual inspection told me that they were hollow extruded tubes. The grain structure appears more resilient than Pyrodex / Triple Se7en, with the ramrod coming to an abrupt stop upon seating rather than having a crunching effect at the end of travel. I had no issues metering the powder with the T/C powder measure; some of the grains did adhere to the side and need a quick tap to free, but that was it. My supply of the powder is far from unlimited, but it has been tested with the Thompson Encore, Savage 10ML-II, T/C G2 and a variety of Knight rifles. The velocities by weight of powder charge are as good as has been ever offered to the inline muzzleloading community. 1700+ fps from 66.8 grains by weight of Blackhorn 209 pushing a 300 grain bullet and sabot is better than the historical averages from 101.3 grains by weight of Goex FFg (1468 fps) 72.5 grains by weight of Pyrodex RS (1580 fps) and 74.2 grains of Pyrodex pellets (two pellets, 1570 fps). All of these loads approximate “100 grains volumetric.” What that might mean to the individual is contingent on the brand
of black powder measure they use and how they personally measure the powder.
These numbers are representative of the Thompson U-View powder measures I normally use. A more efficient powder, in this case Blackhorn 209, offers some lessening of recoil as well, since powder mass is part of free recoil. I would imagine, but cannot definitively say, that Western Powders will use what has become convention in the blackpowder substitute marketplace, designating 100 grains by volume as the maximum charge and letting the individual manufacturers designate loads as they see fit. Based on the pressure curves I’ve examined (direct pressure readings from a Piezo transducer fed into a Kistler charge amp/peak meter) I have no problem personally using this powder volumetrically in place of Triple Se7en FFg, as the pressures generated are generally lower. In my mysterious and borderline clever way, I have determined from the name of Blackhorn 209 that this propellant is designed for use with standard 209 shotshell primers, such as the Winchester W209 or Federal 209A, rather than the double or triple priced “muzzleloading primers.” The ignition point of Blackhorn 209 makes it safer to use, handle and store than blackpowder or many so-called substitutes. Forget the gimmicks of small bore rifle primers or anything but standard full-power 209 shotshell primers. When you pull the trigger, the crud left in your bore is from filthy T7 or filthier Pyrodex, not from your primer. Using standard 209 shotshell primers will give you the best results. Invariably, accuracy questions arise with a new propellant. Well, the best way I can describe Blackhorn 209 is that it shoots to the limit of your individual sabot,
bullet, rifle and, of course, the nut behind the butt. When I flinched
properly on a calm day, I was able to get several 3/4 inch 100 yard groups out
of a Savage 10ML-II and Barnes Originals with MMP Orange sabots. It also did
well with TMZ 290 Barnes, traditional Barnes 300 gr. MZ-Expanders and Hornady
.458 #4500 HP bullets with orange MMP .458 / 50 sabots. On some gustier,
windier days I managed 1-1/2 to 1-7/8 inch groups with the same load array. 100
grains of BH209 (by volume) and a Barnes TMZ 290 is more than you need to take
most North American game out to 160 yards or so holding center mass. The TMZ
290 and the Barnes Original remain among muzzleloadings most streamlined bullets, with all of the
terminal performance for which you could hope. One 10 oz. bottle of BH209 gives you more shots than $65 worth of Triple Se7en three pellet loads with no crud, no immediate cleanup and no corrosion. The shelf life of Blackhorn 209 is indefinite when properly stored in a sealed container. This is in stark contrast to Triple Se7en, which immediately starts absorbing moisture. The engineers at ATK / Federal, while developing their Fusion primer, found that “Any primer is fine with dry pellets. It’s when the T-7 pellets soak up 7+% moisture that ignition becomes critical.” It is this moisture grabbing ability of T7 that degrades performance, a property thankfully not shared by BH209. By virtue of the
consistent bore conditions with no swabbing and consistent shot to shot
velocities, BH209 handily exceeds what can be accomplished with any other black powder
substitute in shot-to-shot, no swab accuracy. The residue is light soot and the sabot acts
as a wiper. Load and shoot, load and shoot presents no problems. You might want
to dry patch or run a dry “bore wooly” or mop down the barrel every 20 shots or
so, at your discretion. Clean your gun when you feel like it; a couple of wet
patches of Montana X-Treme “Cowboy Blend” or good old Hoppe’s #9 does the trick. The litany of
features and benefits is quite a list; goodbye to crud, goodbye to corrosion,
good bye to bad shelf life, good bye to cotton mouth, good bye to water in your
barrel and goodbye to frozen, cemented breechplugs. Load and shoot, load and
shoot . . . have fun and enjoy the outdoors.
Congratulations to Western Powders / Accurate Arms for finally giving inline muzzleloading hunters and shooters a high-performance propellant that helps get the fun back into muzzleloading. The only thing I can’t help you with is the wait; after
March, 2008, you can grab a couple of bottles and prove it to yourself, the
only proof that really matters. I’m not big on predictions, far preferring to
foretell the past than predict the future. However, I can’t think of a single
reason anyone would suffer going back to “Teenage Crudland” after trying
Blackhorn 209. I know I won’t and I don’t believe that you will, either.
The Wild Turkey and Upland Game Bird Project manages populations and habitats of wild turkeys, ruffed grouse, bobwhite quail, and ring-necked pheasants. Although each of these species is managed differently due to their unique ecology, they are all important in providing recreational opportunities in Maryland through hunting and other wildlife-dependent recreation. Less than 50 years ago, only a few hundred turkeys remained in Maryland following years of unrestricted hunting and habitat loss.
Fortunately, the DNR initiated a restoration effort that resulted in what many would rank among the most successful wildlife conservation success stories in the state’s history. Wild turkeys now number over 30,000, providing recreation for over 10,000 turkey hunters and countless wildlife enthusiasts and citizens. Turkey hunting alone results in an economic benefit to Maryland of nearly $5 million every year. The Upland Game Bird Project monitors population levels, develops hunting regulations, and conserves habitat that will keep these birds around for future generations.
A different and more daunting challenge faces the Upland Game Bird Project with bobwhite quail. Although the distinctive whistle of the bobwhite was once a common sound in Maryland’s agricultural areas, the number of quail is now less than 10% of what it was just 40 years ago. Despite widespread belief that foxes, hawks, or agricultural chemicals are to blame, the main culprit is simply loss of habitat.
If the brushy thickets and grasslands that quail depend on are not restored, not only will their “bob-white” call be missed, but a treasured part of our hunting heritage and symbol of rural Maryland life will be gone forever. One of the greatest challenges of the Upland Game Bird Project is ensuring that these magnificent birds are here to stay. Habitat continues to be lost and farmers and landowners will need to make difficult...Click Here For Full Report
Except for the handful of recipes for preparing crow, why in this day of rampant animal rights fanaticism, should we continue to hunt and kill an animal that has no real monetary value? The reason is that the crow has and continues to exhibit behavior that ranges from simply annoying to highly destructive. In agricultural areas, be it the pecan plantations of the south or the cornfields of the mid-west, crows continue to account for extensive crop damage, including the nasty habit of pulling up sprouting grain in the spring. Western crows have the worst reputation for crop damage, especially because of their habit of congregating by the thousands to feed on cultivated fruits and nuts. Often, they end the day by raiding a nearby watermelon field in order to save a trip to a distant watering place. Under such conditions, total crop loss can occur.
Where their ranges overlap, crows severely impact the annual waterfowl populations. When the hens begin laying, crows break open and eat the eggs. Later they will return and devour the fledglings. In the 40's a biological survey was conducted that really shows the damage crows can cause to the waterfowl in the Canadian "Duck Factory". It was shown that crows in close proximity to duck nesting areas took an average of 110 to 120 eggs or fledglings per crow per year, approximately 20,000,000 ducks. During the same year, sportsman only took 11,000,000 ducks. A common slogan of the time was "Kill a crow, Save a duck". At a time when waterfowl seasons are being dramatically reduced and even canceled, the survival rate of waterfowl at their breeding grounds is paramount. Shooting crows can make a real difference. Crows also take a heavy toll on upland game birds, including direct responsibility for at least 4 1/2 percent nest depredation on ruffed grouse and in California crows have been implicated in the endangerment of the Mojave desert tortoise. They also prey on small mammals such as rabbits and squirrels and have been known to kill prey as large as newborn lambs.
In the past twenty years, there has been a crow population explosion in the suburban areas around the country, especially the East. It is now common to awaken to the call of crows in many suburban backyards where only a few years ago, it was somewhat rare. In fact, many large roosts are forming within the beltways of major cities. Besides the nuisance factor of torn open trash bags and backyard droppings, the effect on the local songbird populations is incalculable.
More recently, crows have been identified as a carrier of the West Nile Virus, an encephalitis type virus that has killed at least 155 people to date. Crows have been found to be prime carriers of the mosquito borne disease because of their highly sensitive nature to the virus and their roosting habits. Blood tests are currently being conducted throughout the East (see CROW BUSTERS Cooperates with West Nile Virus Research), but this disease will continue to be a concern due to the crow's migratory nature.
Having said all this, I believe the crow deserves our admiration and should be considered more than just a nuisance bird by hunters. The crow is the most intelligent of all birds in North America. As such, they can be a challenging and worthy adversary that, kept under control, are a welcome part of nature's complex tapestry. Based on the outcome of man/crow conflicts throughout history, the crow will no doubt continue to be a source of many frustrating hours afield for those of us who call ourselves "Crow Hunters". For more interesting information regarding crow hunting, visit Crow Busters at www.CrowBusters.com
Although not very popular among hunting enthusiast, this particular type of hunting can be very exciting and if done properly, fruitful as well. Hunting wild turkeys using a bow takes skill and patience, that is why not many hunters embark on this difficult adventure. If you are a big game fan, think of a bow hunting for wild turkey adventure as a spring training. We offer you some tips regarding this particular type of hunting:
First of all, the draw weight: a confident bow hunter will always choose a draw weight that will not affect his ability to make an accurate shot, no matter what are circumstances in which he will make that shot. We recommend using a bow scale in order to check the bows draw weight. The heavy vibrations that are produced during the shot can in some cases alter the limb bolts and will reduce the draw weight.
Second of all, the broadheads: the shot placement in wild turkey hunts is critical. Unlike the vast majority of the big games, the wild turkeys vitals are about the size of a grapefruit. Many amateur hunters make the mistake of shooting arrows with field points and then after that they switch over to broadheads the day of the hunt. It is imperative to practice shooting with broadheads long before the day of the hunt. Regarding this issue, don't forget about the diameter restrictions your state imposes so be sure to check them before the hunting day.
Moving on, three of the most vital aspects for you bow hunting success are: sight system, bowstring and the arrow rest. As most of you know, pins tend to slide up and down and eventually bend and break, this problem also occurs with the frames that serve for protection. Don't forget to give your bowstring a once-over the moment you have finished tinkering with your sights. Remember to look for cut strands because they can lead to inefficient shooting and God forbid, dangerous situations if the string breaks during the shot. Apply wax to your string on a regular basis and check the arrow rest in order to make sure that nothing has moved/loosened since your last hunting expedition. The arrow rests are very important as they can affect the flight of the arrow.
Many hunters make the mistake of not taking seriously into consideration the nock set. The slightest movement up or down where the arrow meets the string can alter the arrows flight as it comes off the string. We recommend using a bow square so that you can measure the exact point on the bowstring, the place where the nock set allows for the most efficient arrow flight.
Placement is crucial for hunting wild turkey with a bow that is why in order to be an efficient bow hunter you have to put in the time. All turkey hunters that use a bow have to change their hunting tactics in comparison with the hunters that use the old-fashioned shotgun because shot gunners can easily plop down at the closest tree the width of their back and with no efforts, create efficient shooting lanes. A regular bow hunter can't afford this luxury so the best setups are those that are thought well in advance.
Last but not least, practice makes perfect. If you are uncertain of your bow hunting skills you need to practice in order to improve your overall performance. Remember to shoot from both sitting and kneeling positions because in real action you will rarely have the opportunity of shooting a turkey in standing position but of course, a few shots from standing position won't hurt anyone.
All in all, bow hunting wild turkey takes a lot of practice and patience but with proper training it can bring the excitement that all hunting enthusiasts are looking for.
About the Author: Razvan Marian Jr. is the manager of wildturkeyhuntinginfo.com where you can find interesting turkey hunting info and useful turkey hunting tips.
On Its 75th Birthday:
The story of how Pulitzer Prize-winning newspaper cartoonist Jay Norwood "Ding" Darling became the father of the federal duck stamp has been repeated so often it's become an urban legend.
While the colorful Darling may have been many things, father of the federal duck stamp wasn't necessarily one of them, according to an article in the spring issue of Delta Waterfowl magazine.
"Ding Darling was a conservation giant," says Delta editor Dan Nelson, whose article commemorates the 75th birthday of the duck stamp. "He designed the first stamp, picked President Franklin D. Roosevelt's pocket for $6 million to fund the program and was responsible for numerous conservation initiatives for which every duck hunter should be grateful.
"But contrary to what many wildlife historians have written, Darling didn't conceive of the idea for the duck stamp, he didn't draft the bill or lead the fight to get it passed in Congress all that was done before he even arrived in Washington."
The Delta article, titled "The Missing Years", examines the 23 year struggle that took place before Darling accepted FDR's appointment as director of the Bureau of Biological Survey, the forerunner of today's U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service.
"There are many unsung heroes in the duck stamp story," says Nelson, "and the birthday of the wildly successful program is a good time to recognize their contributions to the early conservation movement."
The story begins in 1911 when a consortium of arms and ammunition manufacturers represented by Harry S. Leonard of Winchester Repeating Firearms offered New York lawyer William B. Haskell $125,000 for the establishment of an organization to preserve wildlife.
The American Game Protective and Propagation Association (AGPPA) was incorporated on Sept. 25, 1911, and John B. Burnham was named president. ("Propagation" was dropped from the name in 1913, and in 1931 the name was shortened to American Game Association.)
The AGPA breathed new life into efforts to protect migratory birds, and in 1918, after years of political wrangling, the Migratory Bird Treaty Act banning market hunting and spring shooting, became law. Thanks to the act's protections and a series of wet springs, duck numbers quickly improved.
Still, many conservationists were concerned about accelerating losses of waterfowl habitat. In 1921 Frederic C. Walcott of Connecticut, one of the founders of the AGPA, wrote a powerful article for the association's Bulletin advocating a $1 hunter stamp with the proceeds used to secure waterfowl habitat and public hunting grounds. The article was illustrated with a stamp-like sketch of Canada geese by noted wildlife artist Belmore Brown.
"Walcott's article, which was inspired by an idea from U.S. Game Warden George A. Lawyer, was the first recorded effort to establish a hunting stamp," says Nelson.
Walcott convinced allies in Congress to introduce hunting stamp bills in the 67th, 68th and 69th sessions, but despite overwhelming support across the country, none managed to pass. Fierce opposition from outspoken protectionist Dr. William Hornady, who Nelson calls one of the nation's first anti-hunters, was a major impediment to passage.
The legislation made its fourth appearance in 1929, and this time a watered down version of the bill the public shooting grounds and self financing provisions replaced by a meager $8,000 Congressional appropriation was approved. Some conservationists believed the act was better than nothing, but duck populations were plummeting, and without adequate funding the Migratory Bird Conservation Act was powerless to break the fall.
In 1930 Walcott, who had been elected to the Senate in 1928, and Sen. Harry B. Hawes of Missouri introduced a resolution to establish a Senate Special Committee on the Conservation of Wildlife Resources. The resolution was approved and Walcott was named chairman of a committee that in years to come would be responsible for many far-reaching conservation initiatives.
Walcott later sponsored the duck stamp bill in the Senate and, according to an article in the New York Times, urged FDR to sign it and provide funding. The duck stamp bill passed both houses of Congress and was signed by FDR on March 16, 1934, just days after Darling was announced as the BBS director.
"Darling was a clever and tenacious conservationist who accomplished much during his 18 months on the job," says Nelson, "but calling him the father of the duck stamp diminishes the tireless efforts of the men who laid the foundation of the waterfowl conservation movement."
"If we had to single out one person worthy of being called the father of the duck stamp, it would Frederic Walcott, the man who introduced the concept of a hunting stamp to the public, fought for the duck stamp for 23 years, sponsored the bill and shepherded it to passage."
The Migratory Bird Hunting Stamp Act ultimately became the most successful waterfowl conservation program ever, raising more than $700 million and conserving more than 5 million acres of waterfowl habitat. Duck stamp dollars are responsible for 90 percent of the permanently protected waterfowl habitat, some 2.7 million acres, across the all-important prairie breeding grounds.
To learn more about Walcott and the other unsung heroes behind the duck stamp, visit Delta Waterfowl's website. This article has been reproduced with the permission of Delta Waterfowl.  |
